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1 the third window on the lateral side right is quite low and looking into the kitchen over the sink.
The usual height for the bottom of a kitchen window from the floor is 900 to 105mm, which aligns with standard countertop heights and avoids interference with base cabinets. This range provides a balance for a functional workspace with a view, while also being high enough to prevent most splashes from a sink and to be visually cohesive with the countertops
The placement of the kitchen window can be even as important as its size, especially when it sits directly above the sink, creating a larger and brighter space for everyday tasks. Here’s a look at the standard parameters:
- Countertop Height. Typically around 36 inches from the floor.
- Window Bottom Height. Usually between 40 and 42 inches 100 to 107mm above the floor and between 4 and 6 inches above the counter.
- Upper Window Height. This depends on your wall height, but the top edge can extend up to 72 inches (183mm).
2 A western washroom window is usually higher and less height, for privacy. Common standard sizes for bathroom windows are 600×600 or 900×600 – consider a smaller window for both privacy and cost?
3 the floor joist structure we discussed is not clear to me. It looks like joists are placed every 2-3 meters:
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This system of foundational support is also 600 high, which is twice what was discussed at our last meeting. Is this demo model based on steel or TUFF+ BASE + FRP joists? I believe the raised floor is too high for cost, stability and complexity – happy to discuss alternatives – I would like input on a decision regarding major structure changes such as on foundations.
4 The height from the ground (your proposed 600mm) should not be because of flooding. If flooding is an issue, then the ground base should be filled and compacted to above the level of expected flooding, and the house built on top of that compacted base IMO. Also in Australia I have already had feedback about disabled access to the house – if the height above ground is 600mm then the balcony ramp will need to be figured out.
5 Please send detail and photos of the cam lock proposed, including strength specifications
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6 there appears to be discrepancies between the drawings.
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In this case JD01 shows a height from the ground of 150mm yet the sectional drawing shows 600mm – please explain
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7 is JD01 an alternative to JD02, or just different views? If different views then I don't understand how the C section spline proposed ini JD02 is going to be affixed to the flooring. It appears to be subject to lateral wind movement.
8 Is Porshseal proposing a second 50mm frp joist abutting the TUFF+ BASE? Or is 50×150 the proposed size of joists?
I think that square joists are more stable and will better support the flooring – more surface area on soil, and cannot twist on their side.
How are the joists affixed at the end? If they are going to be attached as I proposed with a steel connector at each end, where is that defined?
9 One of the reasons we discussed the change to factory assembled corners was in order to avoid having any screws from the outside of the building for appearance and rust reasons. In JD01 it is proposed to have what looks like a 150mm screw from the outside.
It also appears to have a covering sheet of material on the outside behind which water would pool.
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10 in JD03 diagram for roofing – I don't understand the reasons for a Galvanized Pipe (or rafter I think) – unless it is a support beam, in which case I would like to be involved in a discussion about this. If it is a proposed spline with a spine then waterproofing needs to be discussed. I certainly do not want steel roofing on the tropical version, that also needs discussion, as it is not permanent and will rust.|
11 I understand the reason for adding a horizontal SIP beam under the high side of the roof to ensure water flow. Can we discuss alternatives that will be stronger, easier to install and more hurricane resistant? Also structurally I have suggested roofing splines that are deeper so that the 110mm depth can confidently span the 5.38m roof without a support beam in the middle. I see some evidence of this in the diagram here:
image.pngbut not sure if that is a roof segment how that would be sealed?
image.pngperhaps we can calculate the beam strength loading of this spline with spine:
From my analysis of beam strength we should be able to handle 5.4m with about 2mm deviation using this method. The spine could be steel profile with flat end:
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image.pngThe advantage of using a pvc ceiling is that wiring/lighting can be easily installed
11 Modular design for TUFF+ 610mm principle.
I see the design has incorporated mostly 610mm modules and corners – which is great. 👍✨
However I do not understand how the 3 full length window section into the proposed bedroom will comply with the 610 standard?
Clarence wants the windows as proposed, and we are thinking that his USA demo will be as shown, but a PRESTIGE model (non-compliant with ECONOMY build because of the door/window section, but a good example of how modular and PRESTIGE can work together)
If they are 3 separate opening door/windows then that works, but it needs to be configured accordingly – currently it could not be structurally sound without a significant lintel above the 3 door/windows, which I am sure you have thought through.
For an ECONOMY demo such as TUFF+ will be ordering for Belize (and perhaps Mexico) I suggest that such full length windows be rethought as separate modules with opening doors rather than sliding doors, for strength and cost. We have not discussed insect prevention yet, that also needs to be considered for the tropical market.
12 the demo house design has a balcony but no verandah.- I am wondering if that is intended to be added, and if not what is the reason for the deck which adds significant cost to the demo? Could we just extend the eave over the patio instead – at least by 5-600mm over the balcony, which is sufficient to install without support according to the SIP org… The roofing sections would have to be 3m long, but they can be supplied from a manufacturer such as OCM ex stock at that length. See diagram with embedded 500mm eave
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I also attach my notes on DC electrics with SOLAR. This will also require discussion, so please have a look. For example, if a DC wired house, will we insert wires into the wall modules?